Soliciting pre-sewing advice and commentary

[Shanazel]

I've joined the costume competition on Pattern Review and want to solicit some input from my good sewing pals at OD. The time period is October 1 through October 31 so I have time to consider fabric, decoration, and even make a muslin before being able to make the first cut in the fashion fabric on October 1.

Dance class falls on Halloween this year so we are having a class hafla, giving tme the perfect opportunity to make a new costume in a style I've never used before. I intend to make a full length entari and vest using the following pattern:

Folkwear Pattern #108

When Liz was still with us she posted pictures of her troupe wearing similar costumes and I liked them very much. I want something covered-up and folkloric/fusionist- yea, even unto orientalist- and this suits my fancy.

First caveat: chose fabric colors carefully. I don't like the example on the Folkwear page because seeing the black pants through the white fabric of the entari breaks up the line of the costume.

I also tend to chose black for costumes and it does not show up well against stage backdrops. So- no black, but I'm uncomfortable in light colors, probably a hangover from having been so heavy.

Second caveat: chose fabric textures carefully. I want the entari to slide easily over the full legs of the pants without any static nonsense.

I have a closet full of fabric from which to "shop" and I am leaning toward using part of my rayon challis stash. I like the way it flows, it looks a bit more rustic than chiffons and silks, and (big consideration) it is washable.

Has anyone used this pattern? I read all the comments on Pattern Review but none of those folks planned to dance in the outfit.

 

[AndreaSTL]

Just catching this briefly before work, but what a fun pattern! I haven't used it, but I think the challis will be fine. It has body, but it also has enough drape (hand ) that there shouldn't be any problems.

I understand your reasoning for avoiding black, but what about a nice chocolate brown or maroon? They're both dark and play well with others, and they won't get lost in the back drop.

You may have already thought about these next things, but just in case...
1. If the pattern doesn't call for vented armpits I'd put them in. You just don't want your arms restricted or the jacket riding up.
2. Take the measurements for the vest after you've made the entari, and take the measurements for the jacket after you've made the vest. I'm assuming you want this form fitting but not restrictive, and since you are going with a bulkier under fabric it could cause the measurements to increase.

TTFN, I'll check back in later after work.

 

[Ariadne]

Oh, I know that pattern! It's really nice.

I take it you are going for the vest and gomlek look in the photo as well as the floor length entari? Andrea is right, while the pattern is great for wear it's not designed to dance in and you will want to either add a gusset or vent the armpits to keep it from riding up. The layer closest to your skin (gomlek) needs to be in a really lightweight fabric, even sheer if you can manage it. Yes, wash-ability is a must. Traditionally this layer was white. The correct style of pants to wear with it is the Salvar/Salwar. I'm pretty sure you already know what that is. The key to getting a luxury look with this style is patterns, patterns, patterns. If you can manage it layer tapestry or brocades for the vest, entari, even the salvars. The stripes they used in the picture was actually very late period (military and lower class) and while it can be slimming in a hirka/chirka (thigh length vest) or entari they have to be used carefully or they can overwhelm everything else. For the entari lining the sleeves with a pretty silk is both authentic and stunning. However, the entari can get very hot to dance in. It was recommended to me for dancers making an entari to only half line the sleeves and not line the rest at all. Instead bind the seams with either matching or decorative seam tape.

Here's a link on authentic garb you might enjoy: Female Turkish Garb

I can't wait to see what you make!

 

[Shanazel]

I knew I could count on you all to keep me on the proper path.

I thought the gomlek with the vest was an entari with vest. Reading the article you provided, Ariadne, I discover that what Folkwear calls an entari is depicted as a gomlek with a vest or jacket over it but a real gomlek would be a light weight t-shaped garment that goes under the entari.

Is that right? Ottoman Empire was never my period and I am very confused. I can see the different pieces but can't decide which is called what. Is the gomleck made like the Folkwear entari?

For my purposes, can I get away with the look on the right side of the Folkwear pattern, only substituting the vest for the jacket over a wide sleeved entari with salwar underneath? If I wear a gomleck, an entari, and a jacket I will die of heatstroke during a dance, even with vented armpits.

 

[Ariadne]

It is not made the same but it is similar. The difference is that the gomlek has a deep slit but is not cut all the way to the hem. You remember all those orientalist paintings that show the dancers in gauzy, sheer, bodice reveling shifts that go to their calves? That's it. It really was both that revealing and a standard part of the clothing. Modesty was provided by what was worn over it.

Here is another website that might help clear up any confusion: Dar Anahita - Ottoman Women's Clothing

For my purposes, can I get away with the look on the right side of the Folkwear pattern, only substituting the vest for the jacket over a wide sleeved entari with salwar underneath? If I wear a gomleck, an entari, and a jacket I will die of heatstroke during a dance, even with vented armpits.

Absolutely. If you want to fancy it a little more you can just add a sash or belt over it. The entari pattern can always be reused to make you a nice coverup if you want as well.

PS. Thinking about it they probably used the entari pattern because there really isn't any known patterns for the gomlek, it was essentially underwear after all and most patterns are based on pictures. They probably figured it would at least be authentic.

 

[Jane]

Anyone who's interested in a copy of my "Ottoman Women’s Costume of the Late Sixteenth Century" lecture notes can PM me.

 

[AndreaSTL]

There just aren't any dancers wearing this sort of thing around here any more, so I'm excited to see what you come up with. You almost finished?

 

[Shanazel]

Me! Me!

A PM is on the way, Jane. Thanks.

Andrea, I can't actual so much as snip the fabric before October 1 though the contest rules allow fabric and pattern choice and even a muslin before then. I probably will make a muslin for the vest due to boobism issues.

 

[Darshiva]

Gah! All this talk of sewing has me dreaming about patterns, literally.

 

[AndreaSTL]

Rats. Guess I'll just have to wait a few weeks, huh?

Darshiva, what kind of dreams are you having? The cool things to make kind or the tissue paper is chasing you kind?

 

[Darshiva]

I think Shan was showing me her pattern & asking me for advice on it. Actually, that's a pretty sedate dream for me, they're usually much more entertaining in a "may you live in interesting times" kind of way.

 

[Shanazel]

:lol::lol::lol:

If I dream about tissue paper chasing me, I'm running straight into your dreams with it, Andrea.

I'm getting antsy to start the project but I'm glad the official begin date is still a few days away. I've been re-ordering my studio and sorting through a bunch of clothes for consignment, donations, and throw-away. Some of this is waaaay overdue- I found a bag holding clothes that my daughter wore in grade school. She's now a college sophmore. :redface:

I also have several magazine and newspaper article to write and a couple of dances to choreograph this week (ugh- we all know how much I love choreography). One of my students also teaches dance at the rec center. We are going to put together a fusion of belly dance and lyrical dance. I've been trying to decide what to call it: how does Fantasia Oriental strike you?

 

[AndreaSTL]

If I dream about tissue paper chasing me, I'm running straight into your dreams with it, Andrea.

I will keep a squirt bottle handy to better defend us!

One of my students also teaches dance at the rec center. We are going to put together a fusion of belly dance and lyrical dance. I've been trying to decide what to call it: how does Fantasia Oriental strike you?

I know it's totally wrong of me, but when I hear of lyrical dance I think of Ophelia. I'm doubting you want to call it Oriental Ophelia; Fantasia Oriental sounds much better! I have seen some lyrical pieces that are quite nice, but on the whole it seems a bit hither-and-yon and overwrought. Hmmmm, perhaps I should see better productions?

 

[Shanazel]

"Overwrought" definitely describes some dance performances I've seen and the term is not specific to lyrical. There was this desparately cool hip hop piece that reduced me to pretending I was looking for something on the floor while I laughed uncontrollably.

Ophelia? Would you believe that name belonged to my great-great grandmother AND my step-grandmother? I get this picture in my head of these venerable ladies dancing in an overwrought manner while contemplating drowning themselves...

 

[AndreaSTL]

Oh man, is there anything worse than church giggles? You know it's just wrong to laugh, but that makes the whole thing funnier.

LOL re: your vision of lyrical Ophelia. I would love to see that, and I would do my best to stay Very Serious.

 

[Ariadne]

One of my students also teaches dance at the rec center. We are going to put together a fusion of belly dance and lyrical dance. I've been trying to decide what to call it: how does Fantasia Oriental strike you?

I love the name! Can I borrow it to describe theatrical/fantasy performances with traditional belly dance vocabularies? I've heard them described as Fantasy Bellydance but to me that creates images of glitter, unicorns, and fairies. I love your name so much more.

 

[Shanazel]

I don't know why not, but let's set some guidelines so the term doesn't get all touristy. "Theatrical/fantasy performances with traditional belly dance vocabularies" is a good start.

Music needn't be middle eastern, but must maintain a certain level of romantic mystique. Certain Loreena McKinnett songs and "Coffee" from the Nutcracker Suite may be acceptable. NO death metal/steampunk/hiphop/goth/industrial trash/pop/rap/Sousa marches.

NO unicorns. NO faeries. NO slave girls. NO overtly sexual themes. Any songs or gestures referring to lady lumps, humps, booty, silken thighs, or heaving bosoms are expressly verboten.

Certain graceful and complementary western dance movements are acceptable (ballet turns, modern/lyrical dance emotional expression) NO cartwheels, splits, or other gymnastics. Movements learned during your cheer leading career are probably not appropriate.

Nontraditional props like veil fans and fog machines may be acceptable. NO dancing in a drum of water and slinging one's hair wet about.

How am I doing, Ariadne?

 

[Daimona]

Shanazel: That is amazing! I've already made a choreography in that style... :lol:


How is the sewing project going, btw?

 

[Shanazel]

Today was the first day I could officially cut fabric but I was busy most of the day- had an interview to do, photographs to take, errands to run, time spent helping my daughter with homework. Then I whiled away time tonight on the computer and watching old X-Files shows on the computer.

Have one doctor's appointment tomorrow morning, then I plan to cut out the vest. I have a damaged red silk brocade robe that I want to use for the vest fabric- hope there is enough of it. I have a tone on tone purple rayon challis for the entari and I'd like to use the same yellow-gold from the brocade print for the salwar.

Dat's da plan. Right now it's 2:20 am and I'd better head for bed if I want to be awake at the doc app't. 10:30 a.m. is the crack of dawn for me.

 

[Ariadne]

Sounds really nice Shanazel. I'm sure it will be pretty.

How am I doing, Ariadne?

:lol::clap: Beautifully! I may actually use some of that in my description.