Persian Lace

[PracticalDancer]

All, I wound up in a wonderful conversation with Laurel Victoria Gray today about Persian lace, found out I own some, and know I need to know MORE! I was hoping that Shanazel or one of the other experts in textiles could help me:

What are other terms for "Persian Lace"?

What resources discuss its history, use, ethnic background, manufacture, etc?

What makes something "Persian lace" or not? I have seen evidence of a plastic metallic fiber interwoven into tulle and need more criteria.

What patterns have you seen used in the design? I have seen scallops and peacock eyes.

Here is the sample from my collection for reference.

Regards,

PD

 

[shiradotnet]

Here are two photos of me in my red Persian lace costume.

 

[Shanazel]

Definitely not my area of expertise but I am looking forward to reading more about it. I'll contact my friend Kim and see what she knows about it. Her background in textiles is much broader than mine.

 

[AndreaSTL]

Ooh, pretty! Do you have anything in mind to make with it?

 

[Jane]

Because it's metallic style embroidery on a net background, my guess would be that it's related to, or a version of, tulle bi telli aka assuit.

 

[shiradotnet]

Because it's metallic style embroidery on a net background, my guess would be that it's related to, or a version of, tulle bi telli aka assuit.

Actually, no, the two fabrics are entirely different.

 

[Jane]

So what is it made out of? Are there different kinds? I've only seen it in person once.

 

[PracticalDancer]

If I get up the courage to (shudder!) cut it, will make a skirt and arm drapes. In the meantime, I am staring at it . . .

 

[PracticalDancer]

Jane, from what little I have seen, it is a plastic metallic thread woven through a tulle. It is not hammered, so the metallic fibers can work loose or snag. I know it is used in ethnic Persian costuming, per Silk Road Dance company. Common patterns I have found so far are a scallop, flame stitch, and peacock. Relations with Iran have halted shipments to the US and other countries. Most dancers that have some bought it from a company called Lion and the Sun years ago; this is where my piece came from. That said, I want to know more!

 

[shiradotnet]

When Lion and Sun went out of business, they sold their stock to Universal Imports. That's where I bought my pieces. I have several gorgeous costume pieces made from it. In fact, when I danced at Rakkasah this year, I wore one of my Persian lace skirt sets.

 

[Shanazel]

So do I correctly understand that Persian lace is tulle embroidered with a darning stitch as opposed to knotted, knitted or crocheted lace? I've found knitting patterns for "Persian lace" online but suspect those are patterns based on the original goods.

 

[shiradotnet]

So do I correctly understand that Persian lace is tulle embroidered with a darning stitch as opposed to knotted, knitted or crocheted lace? I've found knitting patterns for "Persian lace" online but suspect those are patterns based on the original goods.

It's not knotted. It's not knitted. It's not crocheted.

 

[Shanazel]

The patterns resemble bargello. Does anyone know if the original lace was tapestry-loomed or actually embroidered onto a ground similar to modern tulle?

Modern Persian lace must be machine loomed or production cost would be prohibitive. Persian Lace advertised online by Adira runs $10.99 a yard which is comparitively inexpensive. That's good because obviously I am going to have to obtain a piece to examine. I do have a gorgeous length of metallic fabric that a friend brought me from Bagdad thirty years ago (and yes, I realize Bagdad is in Iraq). I haven't looked at it in several years but wonder now if it might could be considered a type of woven lace. Time to dig it out and look at it from a new perspective.

:think: :think::think:

All I needed was another fabric-related sidetrack to follow but now I am curious. I found this site which is interesting though Persian Lace is not mentioned as such.

Antique Textile History

 

[PracticalDancer]

When Lion and Sun went out of business, they sold their stock to Universal Imports. That's where I bought my pieces. I have several gorgeous costume pieces made from it. In fact, when I danced at Rakkasah this year, I wore one of my Persian lace skirt sets.

Are they still in business? Any contact info?

 

[shiradotnet]

Are they still in business? Any contact info?

Universal Imports is no longer in business.

I've heard Adira Dance and Costume might have some, and I see that she has some shown on her web site. I don't know whether Adira bought Universal Imports' stock or got it from a different source. Adira Dance and Costume - Dancewear for all dance styles.

 

[AndreaSTL]

If I get up the courage to (shudder!) cut it, will make a skirt and arm drapes. In the meantime, I am staring at it . . .

LOL I know what you mean. As a quilter I have fabric I love but am saving because I don't want to cut it up. My brain says it's illogical because it's not getting used/enjoyed just sitting in the stash, but my heart wants to keep it forever and ever.

 

[Shanazel]

I have fabric in my stash that belonged to my grandmother and is older than I am, including a gorgeous blue and white print piece of "whipped cream." I've had more joy taking it out and looking at it over the years than I would have had I made it into a dress forty years ago. I gave cabinet space to a four yard length of spring green velour for a quarter of a century until my son fell in love with it and I turned it into a blanket he still uses.

Ya never know what's gonna be relevant.

 

[Shanazel]

Here is Kim's reply to my query about Persian lace:

Persian lace looks like needle weaving in the belly dance costume sample. I Googled it and found several other similar darned looking textiles. But also several knitting patterns that created an ogee shaped pattern. Not so sure that it is a single type like saying "hardanger" which has cutwork, specific threads, counted thread fabric and characteristic stitches. Think it is more likely a descriptive phrase that means different things to different people. A bit like bisquit - to North Americans that word means an unsweetened bread levened with baking powder/soda. To the Brits it is what we call a cookie.

 

[Dunyah]

I don't currently own any Persian lace, but I've had pieces in the past. It is wonderfully lightweight, somewhat sheer, sparkly, and wrinkle-resistant. You can scrunch it up in a ball in your dance bag but it will be smooth and unwrinkled no matter what. Cool stuff, I wish I still had some. It was very expensive back in the days when the Lion and the Sun was still operating. At least for my budget, I was a poor student back in those days.

 

[Amulya]

Maybe buy directly from Iran, there must be online stores there that sell it and have an English part of their web site. Is there such a thing as EBay Iran yet?