Unlucky with tops

[SilverThornRose]

Hi! I have a problem that causes other problems.

I am flat chested. Not even an A cup.
Because of this I have been having problems with tops. I make all my own tops.
One basic problem, be it Bra top or Choli, is that whenever I lift my arms over my head the tops lifts a few inches.
Of course, my other problem is making them so they fit. I have used a couple of choli patterns and they all are far too big for me. One, suppose to be the smallest size, fits my D cup friend. (I gave it too her) One pattern, that so far worked mostly, still has quite a gap in the chest area. I will have to use a decorative pin or some creative sewing in the center front to make it fit me, with or without a bra over or underneath it. I am preferring a closed back or one with a very narrow opening for the back so I can hide a very large scar.

The patterns that I have used is the FCBD choli pattern, the folkwear #144 which I know is a more evolved version of the FCBD choli pattern, and now a stretch fabric pattern http://sewing.patternreview.com/patterns/18520.

I tried making my own bra top but the cups are always too large and stuffing pops out when I dance. (Usually with much laughter from me.) Even when pinned in I have problems.

Does anyone have any ideas or thoughts that may help the chronically flat chested? Nothing seems to work.

 

[Darshiva]

You're the rare person for whom the butterfly top is designed. Buy them, cut off the straps & replace them with secure straps like you would do on a normal costume bra. Bling up the straps & off you go.

Aslo, every woman is uniquely beautiful. Embrace your unique beauty.


*ETA: you probably want to do a cross-over style strap to avoid the 'sliding' problem. I'm a very busty woman (having come from a similarly petite bust to yourself into my early 20s) and I still have the 'slip' problem. The cross-over style shoulder straps are amazing at keeping everything where they should be.

 

[Shanazel]

Try adding gussets under the arms of your cholis. Alternatively, don't sew the underarm seams together: finish the edges of the bodice and underarm sleeve seam, leaving an opening at the armpit. Either way allows you to raise your arms without pulling the bodice up.

For bras, Dar's suggestion of a crossover back is a good one.

 

[Amulya]

For filling, best to sew it into the bra top, so it can't fall out, I used to be quite flat chested too, so I used to make the back straps as tight as possible and also made the shoulder straps crossed on the back as suggested before.
If you want to wear a bra style top and cover your back you can put a Turkish vest over the bra top. There are many styles of those vests, with or without sleeves, different fabrics styles etc.
Here is an example of of a Turkish vest style top with sleeves, I also got one in green.
http://bellydanceforums.net/album.php?albumid=456&attachmentid=9167
I like them because I'm always feeling cold, so these keep me warm

 

[SilverThornRose]

Thank you so much for the suggestions! I will have to try them on my several works in progress.

I do have a butterfly top from when they first came out years ago as club wear. I didn't even think of using it!

 

[jenzamayia]

Reply to Unlucky with tops

Hi, I am Jenza….a junior member. I have been dancing about 39 years. We used to make our tops without patterns. We always cut them with the arms in upright position (dance position we called it) whether it was stretchy or not. When cut out, the fabric or hand made pattern looked like a "T" shape. I preferred stretchy fabric. Measured my shoulders, bust and underbust. Then determined how long it should be down from my shoulders and how long I wanted the sleeves, usually short or mid-arm length…adding 1/2 inch seam allowance to those measurements. Then cut out the "T" shape from those measurements. The neck and opening was determined next…either scooped or "v" style. If the fabric was not stretchy, I then made darts just like regular choli's have.

For inspiration, check out Mata Hari the famous dancer/courtesan who was very flat chested. She looked great in her tops.

Jenza