Bra-making question

[alosha]

Searched and searched, but to no avail. How in the heck do I go about changing the top line of a costume bra? Do I just cut into it with the new shape then reinforce with fabric or such? The bras I have to buy to use as bases are VERY full coverage, and I'd like to be able to change that a bit. Any help is appreciated!

 

[PracticalDancer]

From what I understand, yes. Create a pattern for what you want the new line of the cup to be, make it out of some strong, stiff material (like buckram), attach it to the existing material, and the cover it as needed until the lines are smooth.

Having said all that, I have never been that brave! :lol:

I think one of the bra books I have (Dawn's or Dina's) talks about this. I'll have to wait until tomorrow before I look it up, though, since I need to run to work. Hold, please . . .

Regards,

Anala

 

[Jujube]

There's nothing in Embellished Bras, but Bedlah, Baubles, and Beads says that if you cut into the cups you have to reinforce the edge you cut. It recommends using grosgrain ribbon on the inside of the cup, then using double-fold bias tape to secure the cut edge.

Hope that helps!

 

[Amulya]

Buckram and wire! My Bella has a top shape that has been reinforced only with metal wire, but it works!

Apparently those new Egyptian style cossies are made of really stiff bras that can be cut into any shape, but I haven't seen those bras for sale yet.

 

[gisela]

Is it an already made costume bra or an ordinary bra to later make a costume from?

 

[Sarahamh]

Apparently those new Egyptian style cossies are made of really stiff bras that can be cut into any shape, but I haven't seen those bras for sale yet.

Looking inside my Egyptian costumes made like this, it doesn't look like a bra at all, its very stiff stuff, not sure what it is, but its made into cups in the workshop I think. My friend was in Bella's workshop in Istanbul this year, she says Bella uses the same stuff - the seamstresses were cutting and shaping the fabric into bra cups as she watched. She knows because they had to make a specially engineered one for her GG's!

Slightly off topic, sorry. Alosha, I've been wondering the same thing about a costume bra I want to make, good thread topic

 

[alosha]

gisela, its a regular bra that I hope to amend. but, the base bra is $40, so I'd like to get it right the first time.
ray:

 

[Jujube]

Alosha, maybe you could pick up a cheap bra at Goodwill to practice on first?

 

[alosha]

I've yet to find one anywhere really. But, I did find that JC Penney is having a buy one get one for 88 cents bra sale soon. Definitely going to go.

 

[PracticalDancer]

Found it!

Sorry, Alosha, life got in the way of a quick reply.

Dina Lydia's "Cabaret Bra and belt for Belly Dancers" covers this in the "Contoured Bra Edge" section (p 50 in my edition). I cannot find this info on her site, sadly; and, I am hesitant to type too much here for fear of violating copyright. I do strongly encourage you to get this book because it is a deep well of both knowledge and inspiration!!!

So, after some pondering, here are basic principles I can convey, along with a few thoughts of my own.
1. As always, start with a clear pattern of what you want to do, especially if you want a textured edge to the bra.
2. Since you will be reducing the size of the cup, you will need to strengthen what is left. (This is the same principle as "you wouldn't knock out a wall in your house without adding stronger beams or columns.") Stiff interfacing, buckram, wire edging, etc. would be good choices. (See last paragraph for "why.")
3. You always have other options! The Egyptian made beaded bras I own actually use a firm but flexible foam as the cup material. I have not necessarily seen this in big box fabric stores; but, you may find it in upholstery (perhaps automotive upholstery) or craft stores. Maybe use leather?
4. If your deign has notches, angles, or intricacy along the edge of the cup, reinforce even more.
5. (The one principle I always seem to forget, myself!) ALWAYS check your base for fit before you embellish, and periodically in the process! Otherwise, you have made a piece of at that you will have to sell to someone else.

This last one is the reason I have been hesitant to bead on my own, for the base has to be REALLY strong to hold up under the weight of all of those beads. If you have ever seen a hand beaded vintage costume (or poorly made new one), you can see the effect of bead weight on base material -- they pull it down and make it lumpy. A strong, well fitting base will protect your investment.

Regards,

Anala

 

[Amulya]

Looking inside my Egyptian costumes made like this, it doesn't look like a bra at all, its very stiff stuff, not sure what it is, but its made into cups in the workshop I think. My friend was in Bella's workshop in Istanbul this year, she says Bella uses the same stuff - the seamstresses were cutting and shaping the fabric into bra cups as she watched. She knows because they had to make a specially engineered one for her GG's!

That is strange, because my old Bella just has a regular padded bra in it (not even with buckram, but with wire around the top for the shape), they must have changed their technique of costume making.

 

[Anthea Kawakib]

You want to cut down the top of the cups if I understand correctly - you said they were too 'full-coverage'. I've "minimized the cups before by just folding under a little bit, but I think you could cut a bit and reinforce with buckram if you need to.