Covering a Bra

[GypsyStacey]

After getting lots of inspiration today I'm considering covering a bra. So I'm looking for any tips/suggestions. What worked for you? What didn't. I am a good hand sewer so that's not a problem. I have quilted, done embroidery & a little of beading. I tried searching for threads dealing with covering bras, but couldn't find anything. I'm sure it's there & i'm just not looking hard enough...:lol:

 

[teela]

I don't remember which web site has the info but look at Shira.net or the costume goddess or Dawn devine brown All three have information on costuming that is pretty good.
For myself, I usually buy a bra that is one size larger in the cup so I can put a stiff material such as buckrum. This way I have something solid to attach the sequence, trim, etc to. I then line it with material to keep it comfortable. I will replace the shoulder straps with gross grain ribbons. I also replace the fastener in the back with more gross grain ribbon. Other people use other materials. If I'm feeling lazy, I just plan to wear a vest and don't bother with straps or the back.

 

[Amulya]

Teela has some good ideas there! Covering with stretchy material is good for beginners. Non stretchy stuff is pretty difficult.

 

[GypsyStacey]

Well I did buy the bra I'm going to use & try to cover. Also in my searching yesterday I came across this flicker tutorial along with others, but I liked the pictures in this one.

Going to run up to the city today & find some stretchy material. along with some beads & trim etc. I hope to find something an valuevillage so that I can upcycle & save some money as well.

TUTORIAL: Creating a Costume Bra - a set on Flickr

I don't remember which web site has the info but look at Shira.net or the costume goddess or Dawn devine brown All three have information on costuming that is pretty good.
For myself, I usually buy a bra that is one size larger in the cup so I can put a stiff material such as buckrum. This way I have something solid to attach the sequence, trim, etc to. I then line it with material to keep it comfortable. I will replace the shoulder straps with gross grain ribbons. I also replace the fastener in the back with more gross grain ribbon. Other people use other materials. If I'm feeling lazy, I just plan to wear a vest and don't bother with straps or the back.

great idea about leaving the straps & vearing a vest if feeling lazy :clap:

 

[Gia al Qamar]

ALWAYS start with a bra a full cup size larger than your street size...the cups 'shrink' as you work them...
I begin with stretch fabric whenever possible, because it's very easy to shape around the cups...
I forgo using buckram for the cups...I use 'stays' (plastic strips encased in fabric) which is more than enough to keep the cups firm for decoration. I DO use the buckram for straps which I find very easy to make and cover and attach to the bra!
Good luck and show us your results!

 

[GypsyStacey]

i did go with a larger bra size as i read that they do 'shrink' which is interesting little gremlins running around shrinking bras as they get covered.

@ gia where to you find 'stays' & where do you put them?

yes i will post pics as i get started. this is going to be an interesting adventure.

 

[Gia al Qamar]

i did go with a larger bra size as i read that they do 'shrink' which is interesting little gremlins running around shrinking bras as they get covered.

@ gia where to you find 'stays' & where do you put them?

yes i will post pics as i get started. this is going to be an interesting adventure.

It was from a commercial craft/fabric store now out of business (Rag Shop)...most places that sell notions like zippers should carry it...
Good luck!

 

[Seraphs_Dancing]

Does "shrinkage" still happen if all you do is sew on coins?

 

[Shanazel]

I've never had much problem with post-decorative shrinkage, but I stitch with a very light hand and don't add buckram or filler to cups. If you are careful to not pull your stitches too tight you should be able to add coins without shrinking your cups. I stitch coins on one by one, using two or three beads for dangle effect and maybe a sequin at the bra for extra sparkle. Be sure and knot each coin individually. It is a pain during construction, but you will be sooooooo grateful you spent the extra time if a strand ever breaks!

 

[Seraphs_Dancing]

Ok, now for my next question: How do you determine your bra size? It's been awhile since I've been measured for one, and while chest size has gone down some, boobie size has gone up. I didn't think that was possible...

If memory serves, the "size" is the circumfrence of your chest. Literaly take a tape measure around your chest, just under boobage. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
But how do you determine cup size?

 

[PracticalDancer]

My first professional certification was as a bra fitter, so, here goes: see Playtexfits - Playtex intimate apparel gives you the support and comfort you need in every moment of your life. and Playtexfits - Playtex intimate apparel gives you the support and comfort you need in every moment of your life. for one manufacturer's recommendation. (Disclaimer: they are the ones who certified me.)

Now, for a cabaret bra, the rules are more flexible. When I go to purchase a bra that I will convert to a cab bra, I shop solely based on the cup, b/c I know I will only lop the sides of the bra off anyway. When fitting the cup for a cab bra, I look for a cup that is firm, can easily be sewn upon (no gel fillers), and that can "stand up" on it's own when you lay it flat. I also want one that covers fully, so I don't look like I am "standin' there in my underwear" -- as one teacher put it.

For my pitiful little A cups, I tend to buy a full B or C, knowing I will pad it. I simply hold the cup up in the dressing room and see if the cup alone (not actually attaching the bra and "wearing" it) will fit. This is because I will perform major surgery at home on the poor thing -- I cut the cups apart and re-orient them, I remake the bands, etc. I only worry about the band measure at the time that I am ready to cut that part of the pattern. And, I do this because each set of cups will fit differently based on the shape of the wires and the distance between the cups.

Hope this helps!

 

[Seraphs_Dancing]

That's crazy!...I'm not sure if I sould be happy or sad. And I wasn't even aware an AA size existed. :/

Thank you very much for the link. I now know where to start looking.

 

[intlgrrl]

I just tried the playtex bra calculator...i refuse to even make a bra until i drop about 20 pounds.

 

[LadyLoba]

A lot of Victoria's Secret bras are in pretty fabrics that would not need much added to them. Their new "Nakeds" line has a beautiful silver bra that might make a good belly dance bra with some embellishments.

 

[Shanazel]

I confess to a certain prejudice re: decorating a lingerie bra without covering it with new fabric or completely covering the surface of the bra with sequins or beads so that none of the original fabric shows. No matter how pretty the original bra, it still looks like lingerie instead of a costume.

 

[PracticalDancer]

Shanazel, I share your prejudice. Here is why:

1. No matter how pretty the OTR (off-the-rack) bra is, you won't have coordinating fabric for a belt.

So, you want to go tribal, and say you don't need a matching belt? Well,

2. All OTR bras have fiberfill, foam, or other padding that WILL break down over time when sewn (as when embellished); therefore, covering will reinforce the existing fabric, cover it to keep the foam bits inside, and allow for coordinating costume pieces.

So, you say you have a bra with no fill and don't need to worry about that? Well,

3. The thing that makes an OTR bra not really fit (c'mon, you know you have been tugging at the one you were wearing) is the mere fact that they are so adjustable. They are made of stretching, elastic fabrics that are designed to "be forgiving," when in fact most women have to forgive THE BRA for digging, pinching, sliding, slipping, and otherwise not behaving. Those are behaviors one does not want in a costume. A proper costume bra does not slip because it has been made and altered to the exact specs of the body that will wear it. The fabrics don't dig or slip because they are the right size, no more, no less -- when sewn right.

So, you say you have an OTR bra that does not dig or slip and don't need to worry about that? Well,

4. I am going to say something that may sound mean -- it is not intended to. this comes from years of wrestling with bras, professionally and personally. When an OTR bra fits properly, that means that it is snug enough to grab and hold. And, unless you are thin to the point of unhealthy, that will create little bulges that are not flattering. Again, this is due to the elastics in the fabrics.

5. If none of the above matters to you, there is still this: OTR bras are underwear. You can dress 'em up. You can sew on 'em all day long. But, after all that work, you will still be "standing in your underwear" at the end of the day. A costume bra is not underwear; it is under there, but it is covered properly. And, maybe I am just a prudish lil southern gal, but I don't like to go out in just my underwear.

<end rant>

Hope I didn't speak too strongly, but I have visions of my friends trying to cover these mistakes from actual performances, and it wasn't pretty.

 

[Shanazel]

Anala, I'm not sure how I've missed your Practical Dancer site, but that oversight is now remedied: you are on my favorites list. Great job! Congratulations from another girl raised by southern mama and grandmamas to not go out in her underwear.

 

[LadyLoba]

OK...one more instance of this happening and I'm quitting this forum...but I see once again I've posted something innocently that has turned into something that might start a fight....it wouldn't be any big deal...but I've only done it three times...and two were yesterday alone.

Before anyone jumps on me about suggesting wearing underwear during a performance...I have to confess something. I can't sew. And I don't mean I can't make and design things...I mean...I can't even hem my own pants. So when I suggested VS bras as already having pretty fabric, I did not do it because I'm an advocate of dancing around in your underwear. I did it because I had no idea that belly dance costume bras were even commonly made by covering every day bras with fabric. When I read this thread, I thought adding to a street wear bra to make a belly dance bra was some kind of new but cumbersome idea, and I thought the idea was to have to do as little to the original bra as possible.

If what people are going for is a bra that just serves as a base for something that they're going to cover...then...I still suggest VS...but instead of the ones I posted about earlier...I recommend the same style in the light buff and nude shades...won't show through whatever fabric you cover them with because they're made to "hide" under clothes.

I hope that makes better sense now. Again....sorry....I really did not have a clue how to sew a belly dance bra...or anything else....

 

[Shanazel]

No one "jumped" on you, dear.

When communicating via writing one doesn't always get the subtle tones of voice that denote humor and it can be easy to take offense at what are tongue in cheek remarks.

The idea of using a neutral colored bra under fabric is a good one. The idea of using the basic bra fabric as a costume fabric is not so good. Anala wrote a well-reasoned essay on the differences between lingerie and a costume and offered a small joke about dancing in one's underwear. We've seen it done more than once and the result is truly cringe-worthy.

Not being able to sew is easily remedied: all you need is an inexpensive machine and a beginner's sewing guide. Shoot, you can hem your pants and cover a bra armed with only a needle and thread for equipment. I make all my costume bras and hip bands strictly by hand.

And heaven knows there are tons of us sewing fanatics who are always glad to help out with tips and advice. That's what we were doing in these last few posts. There is no need to gather up your VS bras and go home. Just buy about a half a yard of pretty fabric, some coordinating bling, and let us help you turn the lingerie into a costume.

 

[Firebirdlisa]

determining bra size

Yes, you're right; the measurement around the fullest part of the bust will tell you your bra *number* size, e.g. "36 inches." If your bust measurement is larger or smaller than a regular bra size number, (such as 35" or 37",) it may be a question of finding the manufacturer whose bras fit your shape the best. Victoria's Secret bras will fit differently from Bali, or Calvin Klein, etc.

As far as the cup size goes, measure yourself all the way around UNDER your bustline; the INCH differential between your bust measurement and your underbust measurement, (your "band size,") will give you your cup size. A one-inch differential equals an "A" cup; a two-inch differential equals a "B" cup; three inches, a "C" and so on. Bear in mind that as we grow older, our bodies, (and boobs!) mature and change, and it's common for women to change bra sizes several times in their lives. You might also find that the cup size you measure for may not accommodate all of your womanly loveliness, depending upon the bra style.

The cup size is too small if your breasts spill out of the sides of the bra cups, and in some cases, is too small if your breasts are pushed out of the middle section of the bra so that they look squooshed, rather than enhanced. The bra band size is too big if the bra moves around and you keep having to pull it down. Sewing grograin ribbon or buckram into the shoulder straps to keep them firm, (rather than having stretchy straps,) will help support your breasts PLUS all that lovely decoration that you spent so much time sewing on, AND will help support your back, too!

Good luck, I'm excited for you and your project! Making your own bedlah pieces means you can make things that YOU love, that are just what YOU wanted! Also check out Atira's fashions/patterns for a great bra pattern.